Here is what I hope will be, the most helpful, in-depth tutorial for mature hooded eyes. If you have hooded or puffy eyes, a cut-crease will be your best friend! No matter how hooded, droopy or puffy or your eyes are, you will be able to do a cut crease.
Look Straight into the Mirror
This is the first item for a reason. You need to be looking straight ahead in the mirror with your face relaxed to see where the bottom of your hood is located (make sure you check out my hooded eye diagram above). This helps you to make sure you’re applying eyeshadow in the correct spot. I’ve added little dots to the image above so that you can see where the bottom of my hood is when I look straight into the mirror and the cut crease line will be 1-2 mm above your natural crease. I love my 5X magnifying mirror with LED light for that. This mirror is perfect for applying makeup.
The cut crease requires a mid-tone matte and deeper matte that you blend out. I find the Morphe brush M431: is the best brush to cut the crease with because it’s so small and precise. Also use it to apply the deepest shade a tiny bit above the bottom of your hood while you’re looking directly into the mirror (where I put the dots in the picture above), the way you normally look at a person when you’re talking to them. This will let you find the exact right spot to put that deepest shade.
Cut Crease for Mature Hooded Eyes to Enhance Visible Eyelid Space and Minimize the Hood.
Did you know that hooded eyes are great for contouring?
Time 15 minutes
STEP 1: Apply A Light Matte Shade to Brow Bone to Highlight
Apply light shade shadow all over your eyelid up to browbone.
STEP 2: Blend A Light Medium Shade All Through the Crease, Diffusing Upward
I am using medium tope color as my transition color. The goal is to softly defuse the crease, you do not have to be too precise. Just make sure that you see it when you look straight into the mirror with your eyes relax. You don’t want to get it underneath or above the hood, it has to be right on the hood.
If your hood goes all the way to the inner corner of your eye, then apply transitional color there to. Just to make sure it’s not too dark. You want to keep darkest part of eyeshadow on outer corner of your eyes and lightest color on the inside.
STEP 3: Apply Medium Dark Shade to Add Gradient Effect
Apply darker medium shade, I am using dark brown, over light-medium transition shade. Do not bring this dark medium shade too high or too low, it has to be right in the middle of your crease, where I put a dotted line on the photo above. I find that the small brush works best here, like the Morphe M431.
If your hooded, droopy eyes are uneven like mine. Just try to apply makeup as symmetrical as possible ignoring the natural shape of the hoods.
STEP 4: Cut the Crease
You can use concealer with the brush, makeup wipes, or a Q-tip with makeup remover on it. Tidy up cut-crease by removing eyeshadow from the mobile lid.
STEP 5: To Enhance Visible Lid, Sweep A Light Matte Shade Across Mobile Lid
Light matte or shimmery eyeshadow on the mobile lid will help your eyes pop. But you can use any color on the mobile lid, whatever you want blue, orange, green, or glitter. Really whatever you want.
STEP 6: Smoke Up the Outer Edge
Line outer half of upper lash line with a dark matte shade, blending upward. I used the same Morphe M431 for this job.
STEP 7: Tight Line Upper and Bottom Lash Line with Waterproof Pencil
Tight line upper lash line with waterproof pencil and bottom lash line if you want. Try to tight line the roots of the lashes and not a water line. Try to close your eye while doing tightening, I find it helpful.
STEP 8: Apply Light Shade in The Inner Corner
This step is optional. I know many of us have creepy skin in the inner corners of our eyes and we don’t want to draw unnecessary attention to it. However, it will really open your eyes and light up the whole face.
Estimated Cost: 100 USD
- Eyeshadow palette of your choice
- Set of brushes
STEP 9: Apply Mascara
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PRODUCT I USED:
- Catrice HD Liquid Coverage Foundation (Nude Beige)
- Catrice HD Liquid Camouflage High Coverage Concealer (Rosy ash)
- Elf Perfect Finish HD Powder⠀
L’Oreal Paris True Match Blush, Tender Rose, 0.21 Ounces
- It Cosmetics limited edition eyeshadow palette
- Maybelline Lash Sensational full fan effect
- Essence eyeliner pencil in brown
- Essence cosmetics eyebrow gel mascara 01 Blondie Brows⠀
- Covergirl ultra-fine brow pencil honey brown 715⠀
Estee Lauder Liquid Petal Lacquer
- Morphe Brushes M433 (Tapered crease brush),
- M506 (Mini Blender Brush is perfect for hard-to-reach places),
- M431 (Small precise placement)
- Contouring Brush from Dollar store⠀
Raquel Welch Wig “Summer” – RL19/23SS Shaded Biscuit⠀
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